Fragrance Glossary
Learn about the notes that make up your favourite fragrances
Fragrance Families
AMBER
Warm, resinous, and deeply enveloping. Amber fragrances are built around labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, and related materials that together produce a rich, slightly sweet, and comforting effect. The amber accord is not derived from a single ingredient but composed. At its best, it is one of the most complex and satisfying foundations in perfumery.
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AQUATIC
Fresh, clean, and distinctly modern. Aquatic fragrances evoke sea spray, open water, and cool air through largely synthetic materials. The family is a product of late 20th century perfumery and remains one of the most widely worn. In niche perfumery, the aquatic accord is increasingly used as a counterpoint to heavier materials rather than as the dominant theme.
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AROMATIC
Herbal, structured, and clean in the most considered sense of the word. Aromatic fragrances are built around lavender, rosemary, sage, thyme, and related materials. A family with deep roots in classic masculine perfumery, it has expanded significantly in contemporary niche construction. At its best, aromatic perfumery has a quiet authority that is difficult to place and easy to wear.
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CHYPRE
One of the great classical families in perfumery, named for the island of Cyprus. Chypre fragrances are built on a foundation of bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss. That structure produces something earthy, sophisticated, and unlike anything else. IFRA restrictions on oakmoss have changed how modern chypres are constructed, but the best contemporary interpretations remain among the most complex fragrances available.
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CITRUS
Bright, clean, and immediate. Citrus fragrances are built around the cold-pressed oils of bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, yuzu, and their relatives. These are highly volatile and luminous materials. The family includes everything from classic eau de cologne constructions to contemporary citrus-woody compositions where the freshness is anchored by a deeper base.
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FLORAL
The largest and most enduring family in perfumery. Floral fragrances are built around the scent of flowers, from the rich, honeyed complexity of rose and jasmine to the crisp, green quality of violet and lily of the valley. They range from delicate soliflores that explore a single bloom to full bouquets of layered floralcy.
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FRESH
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FRUITY
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GOURMAND
Edible-adjacent and deeply comforting. Gourmand fragrances draw from vanilla, tonka bean, caramel, coffee, chocolate, and related materials to produce something warm, sweet, and often addictive. The family emerged in the 1990s and has become one of the most creatively active in contemporary niche perfumery. At its best it produces fragrances that are genuinely sophisticated rather than simply sweet.
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LEATHER
Bold, distinctive, and unapologetically confident. Leather fragrances evoke the smell of tanned hide through materials like birch tar, castoreum, and smoky accords, though the best leather fragrances are more complex than a literal interpretation suggests. Often dark, sometimes animalic, and always memorable.
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MUSK
Intimate, skin-close, and quietly powerful. Musk-forward fragrances range from clean white musks with a soft, laundry-like quality to deep animalic bases that wear differently on everyone. Musk is present in almost every fragrance as a foundation material. In musk-forward fragrances it moves from background to foreground, producing something that feels less like wearing a fragrance and more like an extension of yourself.
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SPICY
Warm, energetic, and complex. Spicy fragrances are built around pepper, cardamom, clove, cinnamon, and their relatives. These are materials that add heat and intensity to any composition. The family ranges from dry and austere constructions built around black pepper and pink pepper to rich and opulent bases where clove and cinnamon sit alongside oriental materials. Rarely subtle, always purposeful.
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WOOD
Grounded, warm, and enduring. Woody fragrances are built around materials like cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, guaiac wood, and oud. A family defined by depth and longevity, woods can read as dry and austere, creamy and sensual, or dark and smoky depending on the materials and construction. They form the backbone of many of the most compelling fragrances in the niche canon.
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ALDEHYDE
A synthetic aromatic compound that produces a clean, soapy, powdery quality. Aldehydes became famous through classic mid-century perfumes and remain a hallmark of structured, architectural fragrance construction.
In perfumery: Adds brightness, lift, and a distinctive abstract quality. A signature of classic perfumery.
Fragrance family: Floral
ALMOND
ALMOND BLOSSOM
AMBER
A warm, resinous accord built from labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla. Not a single ingredient but a composed effect, rich, slightly sweet, and deeply comforting.
In perfumery: Provides warmth, depth, and longevity. A foundational element of oriental and gourmand compositions.
Fragrance family: Amber
AMBERGRIS
AMBERWOOD
AMBRETTE
A musky seed derived from hibiscus, used as an alternative to animal musks. Dry, slightly nutty, and luminously skin-like in quality.
In perfumery: Adds a natural, soft musk quality with a subtle floral undertone. Prized in clean and naturals-focused perfumery.
Fragrance family: Musk
AMBROXAN
A synthetic molecule derived from ambergris, one of the most widely used ingredients in contemporary perfumery. Warm, woody, and distinctly skin-like.
In perfumery: Creates a signature second-skin effect, amplifying the wearer's natural scent while adding depth and longevity.
Fragrance family: Musk
AROMATIC GREENS
B
BENZOIN
A resinous balsam from the Styrax tree, with a warm, vanilla-adjacent sweetness. Slightly smoky and deeply comforting.
In perfumery: A key component of amber accords. Contributes warmth, sweetness, and a soft, lingering base.
Fragrance family: Amber
BERGAMOT
A citrus fruit grown primarily in Calabria, Italy. The cold-pressed peel produces an oil that is bright, slightly floral, and more complex than other citrus. In perfumery: The classic top note of eau de cologne and a staple of fragrance construction.
In perfumery: The classic top note of eau de cologne and a staple of fragrance construction. Adds lift, freshness, and approachability to any composition.
Fragrance family: Citrus
BERRY
BITTER ALMOND
BLACK PEPPER
Steam-distilled from dried peppercorns, black pepper in perfumery is sharp, dry, and slightly woody. More abstract than culinary pepper.
In perfumery: Adds sharpness, energy, and a dry spice quality. Frequently used in masculine and unisex constructions.
Fragrance family: Spicy
BLACKCURRANT
BLUE CYPRESS
BOTANICAL GIN
BOURBON
BUDDHA WOOD
C
CACAO POD
Derived from or inspired by the raw cacao pod rather than processed chocolate. Earthy, slightly bitter, and complex — more roasted and green than the finished confection.
In perfumery: Adds a deep, slightly bitter richness that grounds gourmand compositions and prevents them from reading as purely sweet. Pairs well with woody and spicy materials.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
CARDAMOM
A spice extracted from the seeds of the Elettaria plant. In perfumery it reads as warm, slightly green, and aromatic. More complex than its culinary counterpart.
In perfumery: Adds a distinctive warmth and complexity that bridges spicy and aromatic families. Common in oriental and spicy compositions.
Fragrance family: Spicy
CASHMERE
CASTOREUM
An animalic material derived from beaver castes, now primarily replicated synthetically. Leathery, smoky, and intensely animalic.
In perfumery: Used in small quantities to add a leathery, animalic edge. A hallmark of classic chypre and leather fragrances.
Fragrance family: Leather
CEDAR
One of the most versatile and widely used base notes in perfumery. Depending on origin and processing, cedar can read as dry and pencil-shaving-like (Virginian cedar), warm and milky (Atlas cedar), or clean and woody (Himalayan cedar).
In perfumery: Provides structure, warmth, and longevity. A foundational woody note and effective fixative.
Fragrance family: Wood
CEDARWOOD
CITRUS
Fragrance family: Citrus
CIVET
Historically derived from the civet cat, now almost exclusively synthetic. Intensely animalic, musky, and complex at full concentration. At trace levels it adds warmth and depth.
In perfumery: Used sparingly to add richness and an animalic undertone to oriental and chypre bases.
Fragrance family: Musk
CLARY SAGE
A herb from the Salvia genus, distinct from common sage. Its oil is herbaceous, slightly earthy, and faintly floral. More refined than culinary sage.
In perfumery: A key ingredient in aromatic and fougère compositions, adding herbal complexity and a slightly abstract, clean quality.
Fragrance family: Aromatic
CLOVE
A warm, spicy note derived from the dried flower buds of the clove tree. Sharp, almost medicinal at high concentrations, but warm and rich in balance.
In perfumery: Adds warmth and spicy depth. Common in oriental, spicy, and tobacco-adjacent compositions.
Fragrance family: Spicy
COASTAL ROSEMARY
COASTAL WATTLE
COCONUT
COFFEE
Fragrance family: Gourmand
COGNAC
CORIANDER
CUPCAKE
A composed gourmand accord combining vanilla, sugar, and warm baked notes to evoke freshly made cake. Sweet, warm, and immediately recognisable.
In perfumery: Adds a playful, edible quality that sits at the more overtly gourmand end of the spectrum. Best in compositions that lean fully into the dessert aesthetic rather than using it as a subtle accent.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
CYPRESS
D
DAVANA
A plant from India whose essential oil has a rich, fruity, honey-like quality that shifts significantly with skin chemistry.
In perfumery: One of the more unpredictable natural materials. It can read as dried fruit, tea, or honey depending on the wearer. Common in oriental and gourmand compositions.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
DRIFTWOOD
E
ELEMI
A resin from the Philippines with a fresh, citrusy, slightly spicy quality. Related to frankincense and myrrh in the Burseraceae family.
In perfumery: Adds a bright, transparent resinous quality. Used to lift and freshen heavier oriental or woody bases.
Fragrance family: Aromatic
EVERGREEN
F
FIG
FINGER LIME
FIR
FIR RESIN
Fragrance family: Wood
FLANNEL FLOWER
FRANKINCENSE
A resin obtained from the Boswellia tree, used in perfumery for thousands of years. Dry, slightly citrusy when fresh, and deeply warm and smoky with age.
In perfumery: One of the great base materials in perfumery. Adds depth and a subtle smokiness. Common in oriental, woody, and incense compositions.
Fragrance family: Amber
FRINGED VIOLET
G
GALBANUM
A green resin from a species of giant fennel. Sharp, green, and intensely fresh. Almost harsh in isolation.
In perfumery: Adds an assertive green quality and brightness. A classic top note in chypre and green compositions.
Fragrance family: Chypre
GARDENIA
Fragrance family: Floral
GERANIUM
Derived from the Pelargonium plant, geranium oil is rosy, slightly minty, and earthy. Often used as a bridge between rose and green notes.
In perfumery: Provides a leafy, rose-like quality without the expense of rose absolute. A versatile material in floral and chypre constructions.
Fragrance family: Floral
GRAPEFRUIT
GREEN TEA
GUAIAC WOOD
A resinous wood from South America with a dry, slightly smoky, rosy-woody character. Often used as an alternative to more endangered woods.
In perfumery: Adds a warm, dry smokiness with a subtle floral undertone. Common in woody and oriental compositions.
Fragrance family: Wood
H
HEDIONE
A synthetic jasmine-derived molecule, one of the most important in modern perfumery. Transparent, slightly floral, and diffusive in a distinctly contemporary way.
In perfumery: Adds lift, luminosity, and transparency to a composition. Responsible for much of the clean quality in modern fragrance.
Fragrance family: Floral
HELIONAL
A synthetic material with a fresh, marine, slightly aldehydic quality. Characteristic of aquatic and fresh compositions.
In perfumery: A key ingredient in aquatic fragrances. Adds the distinctive sea spray quality common to the family.
Fragrance family: Aquatic
HELIOTROPE
Derived from the heliotrope flower, with a distinctive almond-like, powdery, and slightly vanilla-adjacent character. Warm and soft with a faintly nostalgic quality.
In perfumery: Adds a powdery, almond-like softness that bridges floral and sweet families. A classic material in vintage-style and powdery compositions.
Fragrance family: Floral
HONEYCOMB
An accord evoking raw honeycomb — waxy, sweet, and slightly animalic. More complex than simple honey, with a beeswax quality that adds depth and texture.
In perfumery: Adds a rich, waxy sweetness with subtle animalic undertones. Common in oriental and gourmand compositions where depth and natural sweetness are needed alongside each other.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
I
INCENSE
IRIS
One of the most expensive and complex materials in perfumery, derived from the dried rhizome of the Iris pallida plant. Powdery, slightly carroty, and deeply sophisticated.
In perfumery: Adds a refined, powdery elegance that is difficult to replicate synthetically. A hallmark of luxury and couture fragrance.
Fragrance family: Floral
ISO E SUPER
A synthetic woody-cedar molecule that became one of the most influential ingredients in modern perfumery. Dry, slightly spicy, and remarkably skin-reactive. It smells different on everyone.
In perfumery: Famous for its skin-amplifying quality. A signature of many contemporary minimalist fragrances.
Fragrance family: Wood
J
JASMINE
One of the great floral materials in perfumery, available as an absolute or concrete. Indolic, rich, and complex. It contains trace animalic compounds that make it far more interesting than a simple clean floral.
In perfumery: A foundational floral material. Adds depth, richness, and an almost carnal quality to floral compositions. Sambac and grandiflorum varieties have notably different characters.
Fragrance family: Floral
JUNIPER
JUNIPER BERRY
Steam-distilled from the berries of the juniper plant. Dry, slightly resinous, and gin-like. More complex than simple pine.
In perfumery: Adds a dry, woody-herbal quality with a subtle freshness. Common in aromatic and woody masculine compositions.
Fragrance family: Aromatic
L
LABDANUM
A resin from the rockrose plant, one of the foundational materials of perfumery. Dark, warm, animalic, and slightly honeyed.
In perfumery: A core component of amber and chypre accords. Contributes warmth, depth, and a subtle animal quality.
Fragrance family: Chypre
LATEX
A synthetic material that evokes the smell of raw rubber. Unusual and striking, it reads as smooth, slightly powdery, and animalic — closer to skin than to industrial rubber at perfumery concentrations.
In perfumery: Adds an unexpected tactile quality, evoking warmth and a second-skin intimacy. Used by adventurous niche houses to add edge and distinctiveness to a composition.
Fragrance family: Leather
LAVENDER
One of the most widely used materials in fragrance. In fine perfumery, lavender reads as herbal, slightly floral, and camphoraceous. Quite different from the synthetic lavender of mass-market products.
In perfumery: A cornerstone of aromatic and fougère compositions. At its best, lavender adds a complex herbal quality that anchors rather than dominates.
Fragrance family: Aromatic
LEATHER
LEMON
Cold-pressed from lemon peel, lemon oil is bright, sharp, and highly volatile. It evaporates quickly but leaves a luminous impression.
In perfumery: A classic top note used to add brightness and freshness. More fleeting than bergamot but more assertively citrus.
Fragrance family: Citrus
LEMON IRONBARK
LILY OF THE VALLEY
LOTUS
Fragrance family: Floral
M
MAGNOLIA
Fragrance family: Floral
MANDARIN
MIMOSA
MINT
MOSS
MUSK
A term covering both natural (now largely restricted) and synthetic musk molecules. Clean musks, skin musks, animalic musks, and woody musks all behave differently.
In perfumery: Musks form the foundation of most fragrances, providing longevity, warmth, and a skin-like softness that makes a fragrance feel like your own.
Fragrance family: Musk
MYRRH
A resin from the Commiphora tree, related to frankincense. Warm, slightly medicinal, and bittersweet. More complex and darker than frankincense.
In perfumery: Adds a resinous, slightly smoky depth. Common in oriental and incense compositions, often used alongside frankincense.
Fragrance family: Amber
N
NEGRONI
NEROLI
Distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree. Bright, slightly honeyed, and floral with a distinctive green undertone.
In perfumery: Adds a fresh, slightly indolic floralcy that is lighter than jasmine but more complex than simple white florals. A key component of classic eau de cologne.
Fragrance family: Floral
NETTLE
O
OAKMOSS
A lichen harvested from oak trees with an intensely earthy, forest-floor, and slightly marine quality. Now heavily restricted under IFRA guidelines due to sensitisation concerns.
In perfumery: Historically central to chypre and fougère compositions. Its restriction has fundamentally changed how these fragrance families are constructed.
Fragrance family: Chypre
ORANGE
Fragrance family: Citrus
ORANGE BLOSSOM
OUD
A resinous material produced within the heartwood of Aquilaria trees in response to mould infection. One of the most complex and expensive natural materials in perfumery. Depending on origin it can read as barnyard-animalic, dark and medicinal, or quietly woody and almost sweet.
In perfumery: Adds extraordinary depth, complexity, and longevity. Central to Middle Eastern perfumery and increasingly common in Western niche fragrance.
Fragrance family: Wood
P
PATCHOULI
Derived from a plant in the mint family, patchouli is earthy, dark, slightly sweet, and deeply persistent. More refined and complex in good quality modern extractions than its reputation suggests.
In perfumery: Adds depth, earthiness, and exceptional longevity. A key base note in oriental, chypre, and woody compositions.
Fragrance family: Chypre
PEACH
PEACH FLOWER
PEAR
PEONY
Fragrance family: Floral
PEPPERBERRY
PETITGRAIN
Distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree. Dry, woody, and green. Less floral than neroli, more austere.
In perfumery: Adds a clean, green-woody quality that bridges citrus and aromatic families. Common in fresh and aromatic compositions.
Fragrance family: Aromatic
PINK PEPPER
A spice derived from the Schinus molle plant, not a true pepper. In perfumery it reads as bright, slightly fruity, and warmly spicy. More approachable than black pepper.
In perfumery: Adds warmth, energy, and a subtle fruitiness. Widely used in contemporary unisex and niche compositions.
Fragrance family: Spicy
PLUM
POMEGRANATE
R
RHUBARB
ROSE
One of the most important materials in perfumery, available as an absolute, concrete, or otto. Rose de Mai from Grasse and Damask rose from Bulgaria and Turkey are the most prized varieties. Rich, honeyed, and complex.
In perfumery: A foundational floral material. At high quality, rose absolute adds a richness and depth that synthetic alternatives cannot fully replicate.
Fragrance family: Floral
ROSE PETALS
A lighter, fresher interpretation of rose than rose absolute or otto. Where rose absolute is rich, honeyed, and complex, rose petals reads as dewy, delicate, and green-tinged — closer to the flower in the garden than the extracted material.
In perfumery: Adds a fresh, transparent floralcy with a gentle green quality. Used where a lighter rose presence is needed that doesn't dominate the composition.
Fragrance family: Floral
ROSEMARY
ROSEWOOD
S
SAFFRON
Fragrance family: Spicy
SAGE
SALT BUSH
SALT WATER
SANDALWOOD
One of the great base materials in perfumery. Mysore sandalwood from India is considered the finest, creamy, warm, and deeply sensual. Australian sandalwood is a sustainable alternative with a drier, more austere character.
In perfumery: Adds warmth, creaminess, and longevity. An effective fixative and one of the most skin-compatible fragrance materials.
Fragrance family: Wood
SEA MIST
SEA SALT
SMOKED VETIVER
SUEDE
SUGAR
Not a single ingredient but an accord — typically constructed from synthetic molecules that evoke refined white sugar. Clean, sweet, and slightly crystalline in character.
In perfumery: Adds a bright, transparent sweetness that differs from the warmth of vanilla or tonka. Common in gourmand and sweet compositions where a lighter, more airy sweetness is needed.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
T
TARRAGON
TASMANIAN LAVENDER
TOBACCO
In perfumery, tobacco is typically a warm, slightly sweet, and complex accord rather than a literal representation of cigarettes. Dry tobacco, tobacco flower, and cured tobacco all read differently.
In perfumery: Adds warmth, a subtle sweetness, and a rich depth. Common in oriental, leather, and gourmand compositions.
Fragrance family: Leather
TONKA BEAN
A seed from the Dipteryx odorata tree with a coumarin-rich composition. Sweet, almond-like, slightly vanilla-adjacent, and deeply comforting.
In perfumery: A versatile base material that adds sweetness and warmth without the directness of vanilla. Common in fougère and oriental compositions.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
TUBEROSE
An intensely rich white floral. Narcotic, slightly rubbery, and animalic at high concentrations. One of the most opulent materials in perfumery.
In perfumery: Adds an intense, heady floralcy that is difficult to ignore. Best in compositions that can contain and support its weight.
Fragrance family: Floral
V
VANILLA
Derived from the pod of the Vanilla planifolia orchid, typically expressed as vanillin (synthetic) or vanilla absolute. Warm, sweet, and deeply comforting.
In perfumery: A foundational note in oriental and gourmand compositions. At its best, vanilla absolute adds a complex sweetness, slightly smoky and slightly woody, that synthetic vanillin cannot replicate.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
VETIVER
Distilled from the roots of the Vetiveria zizanioides grass, primarily grown in Haiti, India, and Java. Earthy, smoky, woody, and complex. Haitian vetiver tends toward the smoky-earthy end; Javanese vetiver is often drier and more austere.
In perfumery: One of the great base materials in perfumery. Adds depth, earthiness, and remarkable longevity. Central to chypre, woody, and aromatic compositions.
Fragrance family: Wood
VIOLET
VIOLET LEAF
The absolute derived from violet leaves (not the flower) is green, slightly aquatic, and intensely fresh. Quite different from violet flower or powdery violet accords.
In perfumery: Adds a sharp, distinctive green freshness. Common in chypre and fresh compositions where an assertive green quality is needed.
Fragrance family: Chypre
VIOLET PETALS
Fragrance family: Floral
W
WATERLILY
WATERMELON
WHIPPED CREAM
A constructed accord rather than a natural material, evoking the smell of fresh dairy cream with a light, airy sweetness. Softer and less heavy than butter or caramel accords.
In perfumery: Adds a soft, milky sweetness with an ethereal quality. Used in gourmand and sweet compositions where richness is needed without weight.
Fragrance family: Gourmand
WHISKEY
WHITE MUSK
A class of synthetic musk molecules with a clean, airy, laundry-like quality. Distinct from animalic or woody musks in character and function.
In perfumery: Adds a clean, fresh softness to the base of a composition. Widely used in contemporary fragrance as a skin-like foundation note.
Fragrance family: Musk
Y
YLANG-YLANG
Fragrance family: Floral
YUZU
A Japanese citrus with a complex character. More tart and aromatic than lemon, with a floral-herbaceous undertone. Increasingly used in niche Western perfumery.
In perfumery: Adds a distinctive citrus brightness that is more nuanced than lemon or bergamot. A signature note of Japanese-influenced perfumery.
Fragrance family: Citrus